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From Berlin to New York
From Berlin to New York
November 25, 2025
Rico Puhlmann, Brigitte (Gitta) Schilling in a light-beige cashmere coat with matching belt and light mink collar by Gehringer & Glupp, 1959
© Rico Puhlmann Archive
Here they are again, the German super-mannequins of the 1950s and 1960s: Gitta Schilling, Gloria Friedrichs, Bettina Lauer – elegantly staged in the urban scenery of Berlin, embodying the quintessence of “Berlin chic”. At first glance, the exhibits bring to mind works by fellow German photographers such as F.C. Gundlach, Regi Relang, Hubs Flöter and, later on, Charlotte March or Helmut Newton. Rico Puhlmann (1934–1996), however, never sought to create controversy or break taboos. His images are brimming with dynamic energy – even more so as time went on – with his models coming across as entirely natural and unforced.
This is especially true for the second chapter of his professional evolution: in 1970, Puhlmann relocated to New York City. He quickly built an exciting career – photographing top models like Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campell or Jerry Hall for magazines such as Vogue, Glamour and Harper’s Bazaar, and developing visual concepts for a new image of masculinity for GQ.
The exhibition retraces Puhlmann’s career in all its facets – from his beginnings as a fashion illustrator in post-war Berlin to his achievements as a sought-after international photographer. He was also a creator of fashion films and, during visits to his home city, appeared as a guest presenter on the German TV show Berliner Modejournal. He essentially brought the “American look” to European audiences, introducing both mainstream trends and subculture influences. Puhlmann continued to be a fashion aficionado and ambassador between the U.S. and Europe. Tragically, he lost his life in 1996 in a plane crash just off the Long Island coast. Since then, his archive has been maintained by his younger brother, Klaus Puhlmann – who can, in fact, be spotted in some of the exhibited photographs.
Presented almost thirty years after his passing, Fashion Photography 50s – 90s is the most comprehensive showcase of Puhlmann’s oeuvre to date. Yet it is more than a journey through fashion and photography history: with its broad range of complementary drawings, press clippings and documentary material, the carefully curated exhibition also captures the cultural evolution in the second half of the twentieth century. A rich and fascinating presentation – not least in light of the ongoing revival of vintage styles in contemporary fashion editorials.
An extensive exhibition catalogue has been released by Kettler Publishing.
Ulrich RüterThis is especially true for the second chapter of his professional evolution: in 1970, Puhlmann relocated to New York City. He quickly built an exciting career – photographing top models like Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campell or Jerry Hall for magazines such as Vogue, Glamour and Harper’s Bazaar, and developing visual concepts for a new image of masculinity for GQ.
The exhibition retraces Puhlmann’s career in all its facets – from his beginnings as a fashion illustrator in post-war Berlin to his achievements as a sought-after international photographer. He was also a creator of fashion films and, during visits to his home city, appeared as a guest presenter on the German TV show Berliner Modejournal. He essentially brought the “American look” to European audiences, introducing both mainstream trends and subculture influences. Puhlmann continued to be a fashion aficionado and ambassador between the U.S. and Europe. Tragically, he lost his life in 1996 in a plane crash just off the Long Island coast. Since then, his archive has been maintained by his younger brother, Klaus Puhlmann – who can, in fact, be spotted in some of the exhibited photographs.
Presented almost thirty years after his passing, Fashion Photography 50s – 90s is the most comprehensive showcase of Puhlmann’s oeuvre to date. Yet it is more than a journey through fashion and photography history: with its broad range of complementary drawings, press clippings and documentary material, the carefully curated exhibition also captures the cultural evolution in the second half of the twentieth century. A rich and fascinating presentation – not least in light of the ongoing revival of vintage styles in contemporary fashion editorials.
An extensive exhibition catalogue has been released by Kettler Publishing.
Rico Puhlmann, Brigitte (Gitta) Schilling in a light-beige cashmere coat with matching belt and light mink collar by Gehringer & Glupp, 1959
© Rico Puhlmann Archive
Rico Puhlmann, Nicole wearing a tartan kilt and knee-high socks, paired with a long, tightly belted leather jacket by Hobbydress, Berlin-Kreuzberg, 1968
© Rico Puhlmann Archive
Rico Puhlmann, Cindy Crawford in a silk shirt with Marilyn Monroe print and abstract-patterned leggings by Gianni Versace, 1991
© Rico Puhlmann Archive
Rico Puhlmann, Karen Alexander in a black trouser suit with a wool waistcoat by Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Gurney’s Inn Resort & Spa (Long Island, New York), 1991
© Rico Puhlmann Archive
Rico Puhlmann, Naomi Campbell in an oversized, cable-knit silk sweater by Michael Kors, 1992
© Rico Puhlmann Archive
Unknown photographer, Rico Puhlmann with camera, 1974
© Rico Puhlmann Archive